Blog

Oct 15, 2024

Wine, etc.: The nero d’avola red grape is a fine representative for Sicily | COMMENTARY – Baltimore Sun

Every major wine-growing region boasts one red grape that is the standard bearer of the region. In Burgundy it’s pinot noir; in California cabernet sauvignon leads the pack. Tuscany’s sangiovese is

Every major wine-growing region boasts one red grape that is the standard bearer of the region. In Burgundy it’s pinot noir; in California cabernet sauvignon leads the pack. Tuscany’s sangiovese is most identified with the lovely, rolling hills surrounding Florence.

The top grape grown in Sicily, however, is nero d’avola.

We’ve been fortunate to have tasted an inordinate number of wines from this region and continue to be impressed with the quality and value of their red and white wines. We would like to nominate the nero d’avola red grape to represent this island state as standard bearer.

Originally from Greece, nero d’avola is sometimes called calabrese. It produces wines with medium tannins and a flavor profile that favors cherries and plums.

Recently, we tasted a selection of nero d’avolas and below are our impressions. All are relative bargains and recommended.

Duca Di Salaparuta Passo Delle Mule Nero D’Avola Sicily DOC 2022 ($20). A delicious full-flavored wine that presents plum and cherry notes in a soft tannin robe.

Cantine Ermes Epicenter Nero D’Avola Riserva Sicily DOC 2018 ($20-25). This is the current vintage of this very drinkable red wine. Earthy cherry notes with a hint of oak present on the palate.

Caruso Minini Naturalmente Nero D’Avola Sicily DOC 2020 ($20-25). Cherries with a hint of violets and mocha present in a wine with more apparent tannins.

Nero Oro Nero D’Avola Appassimento Sicily DOC 2022 ($15). This wine is the bargain of the bunch. Made from grapes allowed to dry out either on the vine or on mats, it produces a very rich and concentrated wine with cherry and plum notes. Very elegant and smooth.

Tenuta Regaleali Nero d’Avola DOC 2020 ($16). This is an incredible value. Juicy and fruit-forward, it makes for a nice sipper or a wine to pair with ribs, barbecue chicken and even steak. Made entirely from nero d’avola grapes, it has cherry and raspberry notes with a dash of orange peel.

There are other grape varieties planted on Sicily besides nero d’avola. Here are a few red and wine gems we recently discovered:

Corvo Grillo DOC Sicily 2023 ($15). Tropical fruits of pineapple and a hint of banana, a bit of citrus present a lively quaffable summer wine for casual dining.

Tenuta Regaleali Buenosenso Catarratto DOC Sicily 2022 ($20). This is a very nice white wine that displays notes of straw, citrus and pear. Medium bodied with refreshing acidity.

Planeta Eruzione 1614 Carricante 2019 DOC Sicily ($40-50). Assembled from parcels all over Sicily, this blend of 90% carricante and 10% riesling sports notes of baked apple and straw notes with ample acidity.

Donnafugata Lighea Zibibbo DOC Sicily 2023 ($26). Zibibbo is also known as moscato di alessandria. Floral notes are apparent with flavors of melon and pear. A pleasant white wine.

Duca di Salaparuta Lavico Etna Rosso DOC 2022 ($34). This was an absolutely delicious and elegant wine made from nerello mascalese grapes. Light and simple in body, it sports cherry and strawberry notes with a mineral undercurrent and hints of vanilla and herbs.

Mount Etna is one of Italy’s tallest active volcanos and for that reason you’d think these Sicilian wine producers would have more to worry about then the weather. But the soil here is fertile, particularly on the gradual Northern Slope.

We are very excited about the wines coming from this elevated region and it is time for you to discover them.

The red wines favor two local grape varieties: nerello mascalese and nerello cappuccio. Together they make bold wines with dark fruit character and hints of spice and smoke — the latter is hardly a surprise given the location.

Famiglia Statella “Pettinociarelle” Rosso Etna 2020 ($21). Made mostly from Nero Mascalese, this complex wine is a beauty with lavender and spice aromas, velvety texture, generous dark fruit flavors and fine tannins.

Calcagno Calderara Etna Rosso 2020 ($55). This is another exquisite blend of nerello mascalese and nerello cappuccio, two indigenous grapes to Etna. The Calcagno family sold their grapes to other producers until 2006 when they decided to bottle wine under their name. Forward red fruit and spice character.

Neri Contrada Arrigo Etna Rosso 2020 ($47). Forward and juicy strawberry and cherry flavors with a dash of smoke. Great complexity but an easy-quaffer for current drinking.

We recently stumbled on to two outstanding Vermouths from Torino, Italy. The 9 di Dante Inferno Red Vermouth ($37) exhibited outstanding flavors of cherry, quinine, spice and orange in a wonderful mélange that was absolutely delicious by itself either chilled or over ice. Crafted from equal parts dolcetto and ortese grapes. The 9 di Dante Purgatorio White Vermouth ($37) was also outstanding and great by itself with candied strawberry, mint and orange notes. Made from 100% arneis grapes.

Virna “Noi” Barolo 2019 ($40). This isn’t your heady, dense barolo but it is beautiful nonetheless — and reasonably priced for a barolo. Red fruit character, medium bodied, soft tannins and very aromatic with hints of spice.

Smith-Madrone Napa Valley Riesling 2019 ($40). This beautifully textured riesling from the Spring Mountain District is as exquisite as riesling comes. Big citrus and mineral notes on the nose with juicy orange and tangelo flavors.

Robert Mondavi Winery Red Blend Napa Valley 2019 ($50). Sourcing grapes from Oakville, Stags Leap District, Oak Knoll, Yountville and Rutherford, this classic blend has plum and black cherry aromas followed by luscious blackberry, chocolate and herbal flavors.

Tom Marquardt and Patrick Darr have been writing a weekly, syndicated wine column since 1985. See their blog at moreaboutwine.com. They can be reached at [email protected].